![]() ![]() The John Deere FSM's are available in PDF, you can download immediately after you pay for it, and print what you need. The photos are so dark you can't see anything. They are bootlegs- they're someone's photocopies of the real thing that have been scanned and printed at demand. Wait for your manual and save yourself a bunch of wasted time, bunch of wasted money, and a whole lot of confusion and headaches.Īlso: if you bought one of Genco or one of the Ebay "new" service manuals, send it back. ![]() Crawlers and almost all heavy equipment after the early 60's are designed as a system with almost everything working in unison, with interdependent systems, so it isn't so simple to pinpoint a problem over the internet. There a finite number of independent systems on any car or motorcycle, and there are thus only so many things that can go wrong: so pin the tail on the donkey will work on a motorcycle or a car or a wheel tractor- after a while. Only reason I'm telling you this is, is people come on here and they get upset because they feel their questions aren't answered, but it isn't as simple with a crawler or any other piece of a equipment. Problem is, again, you can waste a lot more time and money running down BS advice and trying to fix the problems you create or run into doing it blind without the manual, than you had in the first place. or (2) You can give a general answer detailing the general procedure to accurately diagnose the problem(ie: the coupler is possibly bad and it is serious shit to replace it), note it is going to take a serious amount of labor and strongly suggest getting the service manual before proceeding or (3) you can do what a lot of people do over some of the other crawler/equipment forums: throw out a bunch bullhockey towards the wall, hope some of sticks, sort of like playing pin the tail on the donkey. Didn't solve it or the actual problem is covered elsewhere in manual ? Repeat the process. It takes so much to actually tell someone what needs to be done, that you're got three options: (1)Take 20-30 minutes to pull out a service manual, take another 15 minutes to find a potential answer, another hour to scan, resize, upload, login post, and give out the copyrighted manual pages. The service manual also will tell you when to use JD gauges- and if necessary- whatever specialty tools to complete the job. If the steps aren't followed, you can really unintentionally screw some stuff up, and nothing on a crawler is inexpensive, and the labor to correct what can happen is nuts. The steps to repair one aren't necessarily obvious unless you've done it before or reviewed the procedures in the service manual. It's just with a crawler, there are enough nuances and steps, that it isn't as simple as throwing out a suggestion like you can do with a wheel tractor. It's not that people on here don't think anyone is mechanically inclined. Not trying to ramble on just trying to give all the info I can. The man who owned it said he was using it and shut it down to take a call, when he got back on it would not move. The machine doesn't look like it has been worked hard with the pins being perfectly round, tow hitch not worn out good straight bucket with no repairs. ![]() The filter was old but I didn't see any trash, just little grease on the Bottom side of the filter. The fluids that I changed looked to be clean. There are no abnormal sounds or smells coming from the machine. Is there a valve that operates the clutch assume that I can check. It kind of acts like the clutch is not releasing because you can put it in gear with ease with the clutch pedal released or depressed with the same result little short grind and it drops right in to any gear I put it in and the tracks tighten up. I also tried taking the reverser linkage loose manually moving the lever so that rules out adjustment on the foot clutch and reverser. I have taken the floor board out and cleaned all the crud out from around the cluth linkage and lever and also from around the reverser linkage.
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